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時裝週還要分男、女裝嗎?比起性別,創意與思考更為重要 // Menswear and London Fashion Week – An Enquiry into Gender and Expression

Date:
12 Jan 2019
Categories:
MODEMENT's Topics

比起一般的春夏/秋冬時裝週,男裝週的時間跨度着實短得多。其實不少品牌早已將男、女裝合併發佈,而性別流動、融合又是當今大眾探討的議題,男裝女穿、女裝男穿或無性別服裝根本模糊了性別界線,還有沒有必要特地將時裝分為「男裝」與「女裝」?倫敦男裝週時,其實我們也可以看到一些新進設計師已將性別條件拋諸腦後,比起性別,設計的創意與完整性更為重要。

Art School 在2019年倫敦秋冬男裝週的展演。(圖片來源:VOGUE RUNWAY)

ART SCHOOL

來自倫敦的無性別時裝品牌由Eden Loweth 及 Tom Barratt 成立,以酷兒風格(queer style)為特色,冀望將酷兒(gender nonbinary)、變性(trans)議題帶到主流時裝來討論。這次的倫敦秋冬男裝周為品牌首個獨立展示的時裝周天橋表演。雖則冠上「男裝」之名,但時裝騷上屢見裙裝、高跟鞋,甚或女模特兒,所有服飾都不具有性別象徵意義。《Finaicial Times》稱這場時裝騷為藝術企劃甚於時裝活動。

Art School AW19 系列後台照

Bianca Saunders 在2019年倫敦秋冬男裝周作Presentation,以男生的房間為主題,表達男生在私密空間最放鬆的樣子。(IG@biancasaunders_)

BIANCA SAUNDERS

在2019年倫敦春夏男裝週出道,這次僅為 Bianca Saunders 第二次正式參與時裝週,但她以女性角度來扭轉黑人男性陽剛氣質的概念卻受到注目。「我想創造一個介乎陽剛男性與女人味的男性。這類型的人通常受到忽視,你可能在大街上看到他們,但他們從來不會出現在時裝天橋,這次我想將他們放進我的男裝系列。」Bianca Saunders如是說。這季的主題為「解開(UNRAVELLING)」,以東倫敦可供酷兒發聲的自由空間為靈感,探討身分與自我表達。

Bianca Saunders AW19 系列

 

MODEMENT 在構思每季的設計時,同樣將「男」、「女」裝合併設計,以祈設計出男女均可穿的服飾,更希望大家在購買衣飾時,不需要被男、女性別定義所限,只需根據自己的尺碼來選擇合適的服裝。我們在以上兩位新銳設計師也可以看到相近的理念——將社會約定俗成的衣飾符號意象撇除,由人去穿衣,而非衣服來框死人的可能性。我們AW19 的系列也在密鑼緊鼓地製作中,請期待!另SS19 「HEADS UP」系列亦快將到店,記得留意我們的最新消息!

參考資料

London menswear AW19 has begun. But does it still matter?
London’s newest men’s designers on authentically channelling their heritage

相關文章:無性別服裝是最新時尚趨勢

撰文:陳褘

 

London Menswear Fashion Week. Although it spans little more than three days, the designers whom grace its stage prompt us to question the relevance of men’s-only fashion in a landscape of changing cultural and gender norms.

Indeed, genderless clothing and androgynous models have increasingly entered stages and catwalks in the last few years. If fashion is a reflection of society, then these changing trends place a spotlight on the way we look at gender, and gender norms. Recently, nowhere has this been more evident than at London Men’s Fashion Week.

Art School

This London-based brand, founded by Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt, brings to the stage the conventions of ‘queer style’, in particular integrating the persectives of trans and non-binary individuals into the fashion mainstream. This Fashion Week marks the brand’s first independent showcase. Featuring skirts, highheels, and even female models, it presents as equal part fashion show and an art piece which aims to bridge the gender divide through fashion.

Art School at 2019 AW Men’s Fashion Weak (Source: Vogue Runway)

Bianca Saunders

It’s only her second official participation in London Fashion Week, however, Bianca Saunder’s designs have drawn attention for her unconventional portrayal of masculinity – one which integrates softer, feminine values into its definition. “I wanted to create an in-between where the guy is masculine, but still has a feminine edge to him,” she says. “The kind of guy that usually gets missed out. You see him on the street, but never on the runway. That’s who I want to put forward in my menswear.”

Bianca Saunders Presentation for LFWM (IG @biancasaunders_)

Here at MODEMENT, we connect closely with such discourse on gender and fashion in design. By erasing the border between strictly-male or female in the clothing, we can be at greater liberty to express ourself and our identity. Such is the central theme of our SS19 ‘Heads Up’ collection.

Make sure to stay tuned for more SS19 Collection updates!

Translated and edited by Wendy Liang