Your browser is outdated and is not supported by our website. Please download Google Chrome

Throwback|設計也要「抖氣位」,最豁出去的聯乘系列 When Designers need a Creative Break | MODEMENT x SEASON WIND

Date:
27 May 2019
她在現實中,精練而低調;但她的內心,夢幻而張揚。同一個她,為何不可以擁有多重特質?
她在現實中,精練而低調;但她的內心,夢幻而張揚。同一個她,為何不可以擁有多重特質?

作為一個時裝品牌經營者,在商業考慮上總歸要設計出實用而不失格調的服飾,否則早就餓死街頭了。可是作為一個時裝設計師,腦海中那些天馬行空又狂想的點子才能真正表達自己的創意。假若有機會不考慮成本、市場、營銷,只做自己喜歡的設計的話,會是一個超級正的「抖氣位」!這就如同在連續的工作天過後,可以毫無顧慮地睡懶覺一樣爽!

很幸運,我與我的團隊曾經遇上難得的「抖氣位」。在2016年,MODEMENT獲邀與深圳品牌SEASON WIND合作,推出以海洋為主題的三組聯乘服裝,其中設計方面由我們全權主理,可以盡情發揮。

MODEMENT X SEASON WIND 聯乘系列。
MODEMENT X SEASON WIND 聯乘系列。

SEASON WIND 着重女性優雅、具女人味的一面,與中性的MODEMENT雖然不同,卻同樣重視穿衣者獨立、自信的態度,這是兩個品牌的相交點。所以在設計聯乘系列時,我融合了雙方品牌的特點 — MODEMENT的陽剛、SEASON WIND的浪漫感覺。海洋之大,蘊藏了浩瀚生物,不論強弱都在水中共生。女性也如同海洋一樣,能夠包容許多的性格、韻味,也有許多潛藏的特質等待發掘。我們正想透過這個系列,來鼓勵女性跳出框框,尋找自己未知的一面,如同MODEMENT與SEASON WIND各取對方特徵,融入自家風格後便能發現驚喜。

海洋獨有的彩螺及漩渦是我們的設計靈感,一剛、一柔的特性也代表着MODEMENT與SEASON WIND兩個品牌的風格。
海洋獨有的彩螺及漩渦是我們的設計靈感,一剛、一柔的特性也代表着MODEMENT與SEASON WIND兩個品牌的風格。

因為是第一次與內地品牌合作,初時多少有點緊張,但整個合作過程卻讓我更覺得設計是無分背景和國籍,兩地文化上的衝擊和交流亦是這次合作最有趣的地方。

這條show piece 背後,有着許多中港文化衝擊與磨合的故事。
這條show piece 背後,有着許多中港文化衝擊與磨合的故事。

這條裙子是整個聯乘系列中最不計成本與工時製作出來的show piece。我們為了做出漸變效果而用上五種不同深淺的紫色網紗,而如此大Volume的裙身更是將兩個圓形的的布料連接而成,一共用上了100碼網紗呢!製作過程也是一大挑戰。我們一向與香港師傅合作,雖然成本較高卻容易溝通,手工亦較精細。這次的兩地合作則配合對方而與內地工廠合作。工廠本身承接大量生產訂單為主,可是我們的設計卻需要用上更多的手工製作,很考功力。一開始我與他們的溝通可謂一波三折,也有很多未如預期的地方,師傅也說這次碰上了一個大挑戰。到最後再三來回修改後,終於製作這條裙子,連師傅們也很滿足!不過在拍攝造型照前一天,我提早到場檢查設計成品時卻發現這條漸變網紗裙子的在鏡頭前的顏色效果未如理想,便即時與SEASON WIND的團隊一起以人手上色,加深層次感,多花了四小時才能達到照片中的效果!

充滿電影感的造型照

在討論造型照拍攝時,幸得SEASON WIND老闆欣賞,直接邀請了我們整個團體回內地拍攝。我們提議以深圳裡的「城中村」(較多矮房的民居)為拍攝背景,對一開始有點猶豫,認為城中村不過是些普通老舊地方,但在我們眼中,那些地方卻很有故事與年代感,值得一試。最終,摩登衣裳與舊城碰撞出來的照片很有電影感,讓雙方都大為驚喜,對方也很喜歡MODEMENT團隊眼中的深圳!

在拍攝中途,其實下了一場滂沱大雨,以致我們無法前往擬定的拍攝地點。 在巷仔避雨期間發現那裡頗為有趣,便臨時在這裡拍攝。紅椅綠牆配搭下也意外地很有港產片味道呢!
再往前走時發現一家麻將館,便租用門外梳化進行拍攝。雖然場景道具不是原先想要的,但非常貼地的真實場景配上如此有Fantasy的裙子,有趣但不過時!

那次與SEASON WIND的合作不論在設計還是團隊合作上都讓我和品牌衝破了很多框條,放膽地做出了自己腦海中的設計意念,好好地玩了一次。如果要數最喜歡的設計系列的話,這次的合作必不可少!

拍攝團隊攝影:
Calvin Sit CalvinSit Photography
製作:Isabell Lau
造型:Kyle Wu、Coco Ros
髮型:Will Yu、Nat Chan(助手)
化妝:Akubi Yeung
模特兒:Tang Yan、Naiara
服裝:MODEMENT X SEASON WIND

編輯:陳褘

Throwback | When Designers need a Creative Break | MODEMENT x SEASON WIND

Translated by Wendy Liang

A refined style. A whimsical heart. Two sides to the same woman.
A refined style. A whimsical heart. Two sides to the same woman.

As a fashion designer, it’s always important for us to bring something new, unconventional, or eccentric to the table: otherwise, the industry would be half-starved of creativity! However, it’s not always possible to make this a reality. Between the budget, feasibility, and marketing limitations, it’s often difficult to explore the paths you want to explore.

Fortunately, my team and I had an opportunity to do just that back in 2016. Cooperating with SEASON WIND was an opportunity to invent something completely new: in other words, a well-needed vacation for the creative mind.

MODEMENT x SEASON WIND Collaboration Series.
MODEMENT x SEASON WIND Collaboration Series.

SEASON WIND’s designs zero in on the more elegant, feminine side of women’s apparel. Though they seem quite different from the more neutral looks here at MODEMENT, this collaboration gave us an opportunity to explore a female identity that captures both masculine and feminine qualities. Taking the ocean as our inspiration, we explored the complexity womanhood: its hidden charms, its myriad qualities, its many dimensions. As complex, and as deep as the ocean.

Fractals and whirlpools, folding in on themselves. Both delicate and dangerous - this was the spirit we tried to capture with the MODEMENT x SEASON WIND series.
Fractals and whirlpools, folding in on themselves. Both delicate and dangerous – this was the spirit we tried to capture with the MODEMENT x SEASON WIND series.

As it was our first time cooperating with a mainland brand, we were understandably a little nervous at first. However, it soon became apparent that the differences in culture and nationality made the collaboration all the more interesting as we exchanged ideas, and talked about our different visions.

A dress of cascading ruffles.
A dress of cascading ruffles.

This skirt was the showpiece that was most cost-unfriendly, but also the one which required the most work. In order to create a gradient of cascading ruffles, we used five different shades of purple mesh. What’s more, we combined two rolls of mesh to prop the skirt up. The production process was a challenge, to say the least (though not one we couldn’t overcome). Being accustomed to cooperating with Hong Kong tailors, we’ve often taken for granted the ease with which we could communicate our ideas. Working with mainland factories was a different thing entirely. As many of our designs had to be sewn together by hand – a process which was both costly and time-consuming for the busy mainland shops – negotiations with partners often involved a number of twists and turns. After three revisions, we finally ended up with design appreciated by both us and the tailors we worked with!

But that wasn’t the end of it. I remember distinctly that when the day of the modeling shoot arrived, the mesh gradient failed to show up in front of the camera. It took a number of hours painting the gradient by hand with the SEASON WIND team, to achieve the gradient the skirt had in real life.

When discussing ideas for the modeling shots, I was fortunate enough to have SEASON WIND’s boss invite our teams back to the mainland to shoot. Our proposal was to use Shenzhen’s Urban Village as a backdrop to the shoot. The SEASON WIND team was a bit hesitant about our suggestion in the beginning, as they had imagined a more glamorous take on the photos. Yet, as we arrived, this feeling dissipated. With a palpable sense of time and tradition, it gave our photos a rather cinematic effect that combined the modern with the old. Both our teams were extremely happy with the outcome!

We selected several shooting locations in the village – ones which best emphasized the contrasts between the models and the backdrop. Yet, in the middle of shooting, there came a sudden onslaught of heavy rain, and we found that our pre-determined destinations were quite inaccessible. So we took the shot above in a different location instead. The red chair, and the green wall gave an unexpectedly Hong Kong-esque feel.

Looking back, the cooperation with SEASON WIND really was an interesting milestone for our brand. It was a lesson in teamwork, an opportunity to explore different ideas, and a study in new techniques. You can count this as one of our favorite series to produce!

Special thanks to SEASON WIND and the team
Photographer:Calvin Sit CalvinSit Photography
Producer:Isabell Lau
Stylist:Kyle Wu, Coco Ros
Hair stylist:Will Yu, Nat Chan (assistant)
Makeup artist:Akubi Yeung
Model:Tang Yan, Naiara
Wardrobe:MODEMENT X SEASON WIND