Throwback｜設計也要「抖氣位」，最豁出去的聯乘系列 When Designers need a Creative Break | MODEMENT x SEASON WIND
SEASON WIND 着重女性優雅、具女人味的一面，與中性的MODEMENT雖然不同，卻同樣重視穿衣者獨立、自信的態度，這是兩個品牌的相交點。所以在設計聯乘系列時，我融合了雙方品牌的特點 — MODEMENT的陽剛、SEASON WIND的浪漫感覺。海洋之大，蘊藏了浩瀚生物，不論強弱都在水中共生。女性也如同海洋一樣，能夠包容許多的性格、韻味，也有許多潛藏的特質等待發掘。我們正想透過這個系列，來鼓勵女性跳出框框，尋找自己未知的一面，如同MODEMENT與SEASON WIND各取對方特徵，融入自家風格後便能發現驚喜。
這條裙子是整個聯乘系列中最不計成本與工時製作出來的show piece。我們為了做出漸變效果而用上五種不同深淺的紫色網紗，而如此大Volume的裙身更是將兩個圓形的的布料連接而成，一共用上了100碼網紗呢！製作過程也是一大挑戰。我們一向與香港師傅合作，雖然成本較高卻容易溝通，手工亦較精細。這次的兩地合作則配合對方而與內地工廠合作。工廠本身承接大量生產訂單為主，可是我們的設計卻需要用上更多的手工製作，很考功力。一開始我與他們的溝通可謂一波三折，也有很多未如預期的地方，師傅也說這次碰上了一個大挑戰。到最後再三來回修改後，終於製作這條裙子，連師傅們也很滿足！不過在拍攝造型照前一天，我提早到場檢查設計成品時卻發現這條漸變網紗裙子的在鏡頭前的顏色效果未如理想，便即時與SEASON WIND的團隊一起以人手上色，加深層次感，多花了四小時才能達到照片中的效果！
Calvin Sit CalvinSit Photography
造型：Kyle Wu、Coco Ros
髮型：Will Yu、Nat Chan（助手）
服裝：MODEMENT X SEASON WIND
Throwback | When Designers need a Creative Break | MODEMENT x SEASON WIND
Translated by Wendy Liang
As a fashion designer, it’s always important for us to bring something new, unconventional, or eccentric to the table: otherwise, the industry would be half-starved of creativity! However, it’s not always possible to make this a reality. Between the budget, feasibility, and marketing limitations, it’s often difficult to explore the paths you want to explore.
Fortunately, my team and I had an opportunity to do just that back in 2016. Cooperating with SEASON WIND was an opportunity to invent something completely new: in other words, a well-needed vacation for the creative mind.
SEASON WIND’s designs zero in on the more elegant, feminine side of women’s apparel. Though they seem quite different from the more neutral looks here at MODEMENT, this collaboration gave us an opportunity to explore a female identity that captures both masculine and feminine qualities. Taking the ocean as our inspiration, we explored the complexity womanhood: its hidden charms, its myriad qualities, its many dimensions. As complex, and as deep as the ocean.
As it was our first time cooperating with a mainland brand, we were understandably a little nervous at first. However, it soon became apparent that the differences in culture and nationality made the collaboration all the more interesting as we exchanged ideas, and talked about our different visions.
This skirt was the showpiece that was most cost-unfriendly, but also the one which required the most work. In order to create a gradient of cascading ruffles, we used five different shades of purple mesh. What’s more, we combined two rolls of mesh to prop the skirt up. The production process was a challenge, to say the least (though not one we couldn’t overcome). Being accustomed to cooperating with Hong Kong tailors, we’ve often taken for granted the ease with which we could communicate our ideas. Working with mainland factories was a different thing entirely. As many of our designs had to be sewn together by hand – a process which was both costly and time-consuming for the busy mainland shops – negotiations with partners often involved a number of twists and turns. After three revisions, we finally ended up with design appreciated by both us and the tailors we worked with!
But that wasn’t the end of it. I remember distinctly that when the day of the modeling shoot arrived, the mesh gradient failed to show up in front of the camera. It took a number of hours painting the gradient by hand with the SEASON WIND team, to achieve the gradient the skirt had in real life.
When discussing ideas for the modeling shots, I was fortunate enough to have SEASON WIND’s boss invite our teams back to the mainland to shoot. Our proposal was to use Shenzhen’s Urban Village as a backdrop to the shoot. The SEASON WIND team was a bit hesitant about our suggestion in the beginning, as they had imagined a more glamorous take on the photos. Yet, as we arrived, this feeling dissipated. With a palpable sense of time and tradition, it gave our photos a rather cinematic effect that combined the modern with the old. Both our teams were extremely happy with the outcome!
We selected several shooting locations in the village – ones which best emphasized the contrasts between the models and the backdrop. Yet, in the middle of shooting, there came a sudden onslaught of heavy rain, and we found that our pre-determined destinations were quite inaccessible. So we took the shot above in a different location instead. The red chair, and the green wall gave an unexpectedly Hong Kong-esque feel.
Looking back, the cooperation with SEASON WIND really was an interesting milestone for our brand. It was a lesson in teamwork, an opportunity to explore different ideas, and a study in new techniques. You can count this as one of our favorite series to produce!
Special thanks to SEASON WIND and the team
Photographer：Calvin Sit CalvinSit Photography
Stylist：Kyle Wu, Coco Ros
Hair stylist：Will Yu, Nat Chan (assistant)
Makeup artist：Akubi Yeung
Model：Tang Yan, Naiara
Wardrobe：MODEMENT X SEASON WIND