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Voice Out|時裝反映當下 Fashion, the Past, and the Present

Date:
11 Jun 2019

Fashion is part of the daily air and it changes all the time, with all the events. You can even see the approaching of a revolution in clothes. You can see and feel everything in clothes.

Diana Vreeland

如同著名時尚編輯Diana Vreeland所說,時裝從來都離不開日常生活。如果說「風格」是代表着個體,「時裝」則是體現着時代的集體性—社會現象、生活習性、歷史背景⋯⋯對我們來說,時裝從來都不是只為蔽體的衣服,更是一種媒介去表達我們對社會的回應、去發聲、去釋放情感。於是藉着這個博客平台,我們希望分享更多MODEMENT如何以時裝設計來 #VoiceOut,鼓勵大家一起「Be Yourself」。

時裝反映時代,也會隨之而改變,才形成各個具有鮮明特色的時代。從上個世界開始說起的話,1910年代Paul Poiret設計出具東方美的寬鬆服飾以方便女性參與到社交活動、工作;1920年代Coco Chanel解放女性腰線、剪短髮的「La Garçonne」年代支持着女性獨立、為自己而活;1930年代起,美國經濟大蕭條帶來的持續經濟危機讓人們希望回歸輝煌時代的典雅服飾,Christian Dior在1947年的New Look系列讓女性趨之若騖剛好回應了她們對生活的渴望;1960年代起,戰後嬰兒一代長大,在物質充裕的時代下,他們更注重思想發展,開始出現「反叛」潮,類似Vivienne Westwood的龐克風格、迷你裙開始出現;同時間,因為太空科技的發展也造就成Space Age時代出現,新物料、新廓型開始出現;及後,Yves Saint Laurent的一襲「吸煙裝」預示着女性power dressing的權力宣言⋯⋯還有許多受工作、電影、音樂、藝術影響的服裝風格出現。

那麼在今天,屬於這個時代的時裝風格是什麼呢?有些人會慨嘆毫無新意,所有「新設計」只是換湯不換藥,但在我們看來,這個時代卻是百花齊放,而在眾多風格中,正是思考如何不隨波逐流、做自己的時刻。在上述的時代裡,標誌性的單品大概人手一件,但如今更多人看重如何以時裝來說話、來表達自己。穿出自己的風格比起盲目追逐更為重要。

我們透過創意概念、設計細節和製作過程強調「個性Identity」、「中性Unisex」與「本地意識Made In HK」,以時裝來說出心裡話。今季開始,我展開了 #DareTo 及 #BeYourself 活動,正是因為我們看到許多人受到看似自由的社交媒體束縛,愈來愈不敢做自己,便以一系列slogan tee直接鼓勵大家勇於活出自己。

之前在法國拍下的”DARE TO” T-shirt照片,各人有各自的風格。
Model:Silvia Stefanini、Asia William、Cécile Simon、Aries Sin、Tess Feuilhade、Yang Xiaoyuan、Kartik Dada(左起)

“You can see and feel everything in clothes.” 時裝就是一種語言,直接展示了一個人的生活方式、品味、權力、立場。從今天起,不要忽視你所穿的每一件服裝,好好選擇「時裝」所代表你的話語,㝷找屬於自己的時裝(MODE),㝷找屬於自己的時刻(MOMENT)— This is my MODEMENT。

編輯:陳褘

Voice Out | Fashion, the Past, and the Present

Translated and edited by Wendy Liang

Fashion is part of the daily air and it changes all the time, with all the events. You can even see the approaching of a revolution in clothes. You can see and feel everything in clothes.

Diana Vreeland

As the famous editor Diana Vreeland once said, fashion has always been an inseparable part of everyday life. If “style” captures the identity of the individual, then “fashion”, as a collective idea, captures the identity of a time period – its society, lifestyle, history. For us, it has never been just about clothes. In every stitch, every pleat, is a medium of expression we can use to respond to the world around us. With our new #VoiceOut initiative, we hope to share more of our design philosophy here at MODMENT, and in the era of social media, encourage everyone to “BE YOURSELF”.

Fashion has always ebbed and flowed with the tides of history, dressing the characters that walk across its stage. At the turn of the century, Paul Poiret’s loose orientalist dresses were the mark of an era where women increasingly participated in work and social activities. In the 1920s, the adventurous optimism of post-war Europe rallied behind Coco Chanel’s “La Garconne” look, featuring looser waists and shorter hemlines. And as the Great Depression reverberated through the 30s, fashion saw a return to traditional elegance, a collective nostalgia for the former glory of the past. After WWII, Christian Dior’s iconic ‘New Look’ series brought back a sense of Victorian order, after the world was shook to its core. A decade later, as the generation of Baby Boomers came of age, fashion saw a decade of rebellion, led by designers such as Vivienne Westwood.

Along the way, there are also a number of other designers that captured other aspects of society. As the Space Race led to an outpouring of revolutionary technology, new materials began to appear in designer’s works, such as oroton – a metal chainmail that was delicate enough to drape. Additionally as women gained a more permanent presence in the workplace, we saw campaigns like Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Smoking’ that began the idea of ‘power dressing’.

After reviewing all this, we’re all tempted to ask – what’s the identity of our current era? Some might sigh and say that there’s nothing new. Designs are, after all, just fabric and textures and patterns reshuffled. Yet, in a world entrenched in social media and online personas, we’ve noticed the tendency of this generation to embrace our individuality and a personal identity. Fashion now, more than ever, has become a widened palette to illustrate who you are, whether it is through the unisex clothing, sustainable fashion, or a nostalgic 90s tee. Starting this season, we launched our #DareTo and #BeYourself campaigns to highlight just that. Fashion has always held up a mirror to society. But its necessary to ask: what does it reflect when we hold it up to ourselves?

The “DARE TO” t-shirt collection. Everyone is in his/her own style with the same shirt.
Model:Silvia Stefanini、Asia William、Cécile Simon、Aries Sin、Tess Feuilhade、Yang Xiaoyuan、Kartik Dada(左起)

“You can see and feel everything in clothes.” In a way, fashion has always been a universal language. It’s a glimpse at an individual’s lifestyle, their taste, their position, and their ideals. If we look closely, we can glean a lot from the world that fashion represents. And if we dress carefully, there is a lot that the world can understand from us. Find your MODE, find your MOMENT – This is my MODEMENT.